As birth and fertility rates fall, there is official concern about the economic impact of a declining and ageing population

It is not hard to spot the grey hairs among the late-morning shoppers on Jizo-dori. Their owners have come to buy discount underwear and colourful blouses, have lunch with friends in retro cafes and, if they are over 60, have their nails done at huge discounts.

At regular intervals along the street, signs indicate the presence of defibrillators; and at Koganji temple, people pause to waft “cure-all” smoke from smouldering incense sticks over their aches and pains.